The skin whitening industry in the Philippines

Because skin whitening is an unhealthy, big, and booming industry in many developing countries, the author presents the pricing advantages of toxic whiteners over safer products and compares regulatory strategies.

Introduction

Skin whitening is a big and booming industry in most developing countries. In contrast to the use of skin bleachers among Caucasian populations to repair skin damage or reduce visible signs of aging, popularity of these products in less developed countries owes mainly to post-colonial, internalized racism. The prevailing Caucasian or 'western' notion and standards of beauty and sex appeal have created light or 'white' skin hegemonic representations based on alleged superiority of light to dark skin. These come with expectations of improved income, less discriminatory treatment, and greater social acceptance of people who use bleaching products to achieve lighter skin tones.^{1, 2} The skin whitening industry in developing countries is far more robust and expansive than in Western countries.

Dark skinned people have more melanin, the primary determinant of human skin color. Skin whitening products contain chemicals to reduce the concentration of melanin. Typically sunscreen and prescription retinoids supplement skin whiteners. Although some whiteners help achieve lighter skin tones, many contain harmful ingredients, including: the steroid clobetasol propionate, inorganic mercury (mercuric chloride or ammoniated mercury), glutathione (an antioxidant traditionally used in conjunction with cancer treatment), and the organic compound, hydroquinone.³ The main health hazards of skin lighteners are linked to: (i) misuse of topical clobetasol that can produce systemic steroid effects from daily applications, particularly on large skin areas; and (ii) hidden mercury content, and thus mercury poisoning, depending on individual susceptibility.

Serious health concerns have led several countries, including the Philippines, to respond with policy measures about testing, marketing, purchasing, and utilization of skin whitening products. Government interventions may bring problems. Regulation can inhibit innovation, and increase drug and cosmetic prices.^{4, 5} Governmental actions may not work because political pressures from interest groups influence and promote vested interests.⁶ Some economists have therefore advocated private, market solutions.⁶

We examine whether government intervention is necessary and more efficient than market-oriented approaches to address health risks and harms associated with skin whitening. Critically, what are the quality and quantity of information exchanged between sellers and buyers of skin whiteners that...