AN AYURVEDIC OUTLOOK TO MUKHA LEPA (FACE PACK) FOR BEAUTY CARE

Abstract

Beauty, the quality that gives pleasure to the senses, is perhaps the desire of every human being on earth. Some are born beautiful and some are made beautiful. The concept of using herbs for the beautification is well described in Ayurvedic literature. Since centuries the herbal extracts, as a whole or part, have been used for various ailments of the skin, hair and for overall appearance. The herbal paste which is applied on face to treat acne, pimple, scars, marks and pigments are known as "Mukha Lepa (face pack)" in Ayurveda. There are various kinds of face packs described in Ayurveda based on climatic changes which have nourishing, healing, cleansing, astringent and antiseptic properties. The present article is aimed to provide the details about the concept of Mukha lepa, the drugs useful for improving complexion and for the common skin ailments. For this, the material was collected from the main classical texts and Nighantus of Ayurveda including published scholarly articles. Overall it can be said that, it is always better to avoid synthetic, chemical based cosmetic products and use the natural substances and products for beautification.

Headnote

ABSTRACT

Beauty, the quality that gives pleasure to the senses, is perhaps the desire of every human being on earth. Some are born beautiful and some are made beautiful. The concept of using herbs for the beautification is well described in Ayurvedic literature. Since centuries the herbal extracts, as a whole or part, have been used for various ailments of the skin, hair and for overall appearance. The herbal paste which is applied on face to treat acne, pimple, scars, marks and pigments are known as "Mukha Lepa (face pack)" in Ayurveda. There are various kinds of face packs described in Ayurveda based on climatic changes which have nourishing, healing, cleansing, astringent and antiseptic properties. The present article is aimed to provide the details about the concept of Mukha lepa, the drugs useful for improving complexion and for the common skin ailments. For this, the material was collected from the main classical texts and Nighantus of Ayurveda including published scholarly articles. Overall it can be said that, it is always better to avoid synthetic, chemical based cosmetic products and use the natural substances and products for beautification.

KEY WORDS: Mukha Lepa, Ayurveda, face pack, beauty care cosmetics

Anupama Shukla1*, Pankaj Kothari2, Akhilesh Shukla3, CR Yadav4

INTRODUCTION:

The word beauty is derived from the French literature 'bellus' means pretty, handsome, charming (Beauty n., online etymology dictionary). It is the natural desire of mankind to have a healthy and glamorous skin with attractive personality. But very few are blessed with naturally perfect skin. People always have great concern about their health and beauty (i.e. good looking). eauty is not just a visual experience; it is a characteristic that provides a perceptual experience to the eye, the ear, the intellect, the aesthetic faculty, or the moral sense. It is the qualities that give pleasure, meaning or satisfaction to the senses (J Rory Corbett, 2009). Various synthetic chemical based cosmetic products are used to look fairer and attractive. It was found that an average adult uses nine cosmetic products daily. More than 25% of women use 15 or more (Linda B, Sedlewicz BS., 2005). These cosmetics products, due to their multiple ingredients, are the top causes of toxicity exposure (Parkinson A., 1996). Cosmetics, toiletries, and skin-care products, including sunscreens, quite frequently cause adverse reactions, (Foley P, Nixon R, Marks R et al., 1993) and are the commonest single reason for hospital referrals with allergic contact dermatitis (De Groot AC., 1990).

A great demand from Ayurveda in the field of cosmetology has been established due to its unique concept about beauty and effective, cheaper and long lasting beauty therapy without any side effect. The herbal paste which is applied on face to treat acne, pimple, scars, marks and pigments are known as "mukha lepa" in Ayurveda (Yadav N & Yadav R, 2015).

Face pack is one of the well known effective and oldest methods which are cosmetic preparation spread over the face and left for some time to cleanse and improve the condition of the skin (Definition of face pack in English). They are allowed to dry or to set with the object of improving the appearance of the skin by producing a transient tightening effect as well as by cleansing the skin (SH. Sahasrabuddhe, 2015). Different types of skin need different types of face packs. They help us in looking after skin and also prove its worthiness by increasing the circulation of the blood within the veins of the face. Face packs are helpful for preventive, promotive and curative aspects of any skin problems. Besmearing the face (with scented pastes etc.) imparts steadiness to the eyes, brings on a broad and graceful contour of the cheeks and mouth, produces their healthful glow like that of a lotus flower and prevents its disfigurement by pimples, moles and such like growths and eruptions and Vyanga (blackish hyper pigmentation of skin over face) (Y.T. Acharya & Narayana Ram Acharya Kavyatirtha, 2008; Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010). The present review highlights the adverse effect of synthetic cosmetics and emphasizes the Ayurveda concept of Mukha lepa for beauty care.

Seasonal Mukha lepa (Face pack): (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010)

In Ayurvedic classics various anointments are described based on seasons which help to keep the skin healthy and improves the complexion. The list of drugs useful for preparing Mukha Lepa in different seasons is shown in table no.1.

Types of Mukha lepa:

Mukha lepa (face pack) has been classified mainly into three types based on their therapeutic use- (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010; Priyavrata Sharma & Guruprasad Sharma, 2009)

> Doshahara (alleviator of Dosha)'. This variety of Lepa (face pack) includes such drugs which exerts their alleviatory action directly on the Doshas.

> Vishahara (alleviator of poisonous effect): This kind of Lepa (face pack) includes the drugs which nullifies the poisons directly at local level after application.

> Varnakrita (promoter of complexion): This kind of Lepa (face pack) includes the drugs which improve the complexion after application.

Properties of a good quality Mukha lepa: (Piyush V Pampaniya (2011)

> It should be a smooth paste without gritty particles.

> The drugs should be uniformly mixed.

> Sufficient liquid media should be added in preparation of face pack.

> It should have pleasant odour.

> It should produce a significant cleansing of skin.

> It should be non toxic to the skin.

> When applied to the face, it should dry out rapidly to form an adherent coating on face.

> The coating should be such which can be removed either by piling or by gentle washing and should not cause any discomfort to face.

METHOD OF LEPA APPLICATION:

Doshika consideration of Mukha Lepa: In Vatakapha condition the Lepa should be slightly warm and in other cases of Pitta involvement and Varnya Lepa (facepack for improving complexion), it should be cold in nature (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010).

Thickness of Mukha Lepa: One fourth, one third & half Angula Pramana is the thickness of the Lepa respectively for Doshaghna, Vishaghna & Varnya Lepa. (One angula = 1.5 cm approx) (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010).

Time for Lepa application: Lepa should not be applied at nights nor should it be allowed to stay on after it dries up (Brahmananda Tripathi, 2013).

Direction of Lepa application:

> Lepa should be gently rubbed in an upward to opposite direction of hairs over the skin to make the action of application more quick & effective (Y.T. Acharya and Narayana Ram Acharya Kavyatirtha, 2008).

Procedure after application of Mukha lepa: (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010)

> Lepa should be allowed to remain till it becomes dry; if left dry, it vitiates the complexion of the skin.

> It should be removed after moistening and when removed, the face should be anointed with oil.

> The person should avoid day sleep, excessive talk, exposure to fire and sunlight, sorrow and anger.

Contraindication of Mukha lepa: (Hari Sadasiva Shastri Paradakara, 2010)

It should not be applied to persons suffering from Pinasa (rhinorrhoea), Ajirna (indigestion), immediately after Nasya Karma (nasal drops), Hanugraha (lock jaw), Arochaka (anorexia) and after keeping awake the previous night.

Benefits of Mukhalepa:

If properly applied, it cures premature greying of hairs, Vyanga (blackish hyper pigmentation of face), wrinkles, Timira (blurring of vision), and Nilika (bluish hyper pigmentation).

Face pack combinations for common skin complaints:

1. Paste prepared from equal part of Rakta Chandana (Pterocarpus santalinus), Kustha (Saussurea lappa), Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Dhanyaka (Coriandrum sativum) and Vacha (Acorus calamus) are useful for teenage to check pimples and darkness (Shailendra Mani Tripathi, 2003).

2. A paste prepared from the powder of prickles taken out from the bark of Salmali (Salmalia malabarica), in milk is very effective for acne and pimples. Result of this paste can be seen after 3 days of application. Skin becomes soft and silky (Shailendra Mani Tripathi, 2003).

3. Paste of Masura (Lens culinaris), Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia), apical bud of Vata (Ficus benghalensis) & honey mixed in equal parts, applied as face packis useful for blackish blue patches (Shailendra Mani Tripathi, 2003).

4. Powder of Shalmali Kantaka (prickles of Salmalia malabarica), buds of Vata (Ficus bengalensis), Jatiphala (Myristica fragrans), Lodhra tvak (Bark of Symplocos racemosa), Masura (Lens culinaris) and Rakta chandana (Pterocarpus santalinus) in equal quantity mixed with sufficient quantity of milk gives good result on Acne (Piyush V Pampaniya, 2011).

5. Powder of Lodhra (Symplocos racemosa), Dhanyaka (Coriandrum sativum) and Vacha (Acorus calamus) (Brahmananda Tripathi, 2013) in equal quantity mixed with sufficient quantity of milk (without cream) gives good result in Yauvan pidika (acne) (Ramesh Chandra Aruna, 2002).

Classical drugs for improving face complexion and to cure common skin ailments:

In Charaka Samhita numerous drugs are described for improving the complexion and for the treatment of skin ailments. Like Varnya dashemani (ten complexion promoter drugs) shown in table no.2, Kusthaghna dashemani (ten drugs for curing skin diseases), shown in table no.3. The group of drugs and single drugs having Varnya action described in Ayurvedic classics and Nighantus are described in Table no. 4 & 5.

The drugs (Table no. 3,4,5) can be used both as externally and internally. Externally it can be used for face wash or as face pack to improve the glow of skin and to treat the ailments.

DISCUSSION:

Cosmetics, toiletries, and skin-care Products, including sunscreens etc. quite frequently cause adverse reactions. (Foley P et al., 1993) It is estimated that 1.3% of the population are allergic to a cosmetic or cosmetic ingredient (De Groot AC et al., 1988). Mercury is one of the common ingredient found in skin lightening soaps and creams, (Mercury in skin lightening products - World Health Organization) which are commonly used in certain African and Asian nations (WHO, 2008; UNEP, 2008). In India, 61% of the dermatological market consists of skin lightening products (Ladizinski B et al., 2011).

The main adverse effect of the inorganic mercury contained in skin lightening soaps and creams is kidney damage (Engler DE, 2005). Mercury in skin lightening products may also cause skin rashes, skin discoloration and scarring, as well as a reduction in the skin's resistance to bacterial and fungal infections (UNEP, 2008; Ladizinski B et al., 2011). Other effects include anxiety, depression or psychosis and peripheral neuropathy (UNEP, 2008, Glahder CM et al., 1999; Ladizinski B et al., 2011). Mercury-containing skin lightening products are hazardous to health and as a result have been banned in many countries (Mercury in skin lightening products - World Health Organization). Despite that it is still marketed and not completely stopped. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated mainly by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics, the belief that plants based cosmetics products are superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics and the reference to successful historical use by different cultures (Prashant L Kole, & Hemant R Jadhav et al., 2005). Various drugs which are used in preparation of Ayurveda Mukh Lepa, make skin healthy in natural way and enhances the complexion without causing any adverse reaction. It can be also effectively used to get rid of common skin ailments like acne vulgarise, hyper pigmented patches, scar marks etc.

CONCLUSION:

The face is the feature which distinguishes a person. It is one of the parameter to identify a person. The face is the window of the body and mind, which allows us to communicate with the world around us. The concern of face has taken first place in the present era and all people try to keep their face neat and clean because the face is directly exposed to the external environment and get easily affected by the environmental changes. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated by the decline of faith in modern cosmetics, the belief that plant based cosmetics products are superior to man-made synthetic cosmetics and the reference to successful historical use by different cultures. These reasons have contributed to the increased acceptance as well as manufacture of herbal cosmetics. Use of Mukha lepa increases beauty and imparts freshness. It is better to avoid synthetic chemical based cosmetic products and use the natural substances and products. It will make skin healthy, prevent from skin diseases and improve complexion. Herbal face packs increase the fairness and smoothness of skin, also able to cure wrinkles, dark circles, pimples etc. One can derive the maximum benefits of herbal face packs by using them according to their skin type. Face packs are helpful for preventive and curative purpose of any skin problems.

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Cite this article:

Anupama Shukla, Pankaj Kothari, Akhilesh Shukla, CR Yadav (2016), AN AYURVEDIC OUTLOOK TO MUKHA LEPA (FACE PACK) FOR BEAUTY CARE,

Global J Res. Med. Plants & Indigen. Med., Volume 5(6): 194-202

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