CLOTHING BUYING MOTIVES AND STORE SELECTION CRITERIA - THE CASE OF CROATIAN ADOLESCENTS

Abstract

The aim of this paper is to analyse Croatian adolescents' clothing buying motives and their retail store selection criteria. The paper examined their preferences, attitudes and behaviours when buying clothes - whether adolescents with different primary clothing motives would have similar or different store selection criteria. Also, the paper determined how today's adolescents spend money on clothes and whether they are more inclined to purchase branded clothes or not. Finally, the paper explained whether Croatian adolescents prefer purchasing in small or large specialized apparel stores, or whether they are more prone to online purchasing or even buying clothes in second-hand shops. Also, the society influences in forming adolescents' attitudes and decisions towards store selection and purchasing preferences of clothes were examined. The research findings showed that shopping centres are the preferred retail format. In addition, adolescents do not have a fully developed attitude on fashion and clothing. Therefore, they strongly refer to opinions of family and friends when choosing clothes. Moreover, the Internet and TV are evaluated as influential channels of consumer communication within this particular group of consumers. Based on the findings, suggestions for service management and marketing strategies are provided for apparel retail companies that target adolescents.

Headnote

ABSTRACT

The aim of this paper is to analyse Croatian adolescents' clothing buying motives and their retail store selection criteria. The paper examined their preferences, attitudes and behaviours when buying clothes - whether adolescents with different primary clothing motives would have similar or different store selection criteria. Also, the paper determined how today's adolescents spend money on clothes and whether they are more inclined to purchase branded clothes or not. Finally, the paper explained whether Croatian adolescents prefer purchasing in small or large specialized apparel stores, or whether they are more prone to online purchasing or even buying clothes in second-hand shops. Also, the society influences in forming adolescents' attitudes and decisions towards store selection and purchasing preferences of clothes were examined. The research findings showed that shopping centres are the preferred retail format. In addition, adolescents do not have a fully developed attitude on fashion and clothing. Therefore, they strongly refer to opinions of family and friends when choosing clothes. Moreover, the Internet and TV are evaluated as influential channels of consumer communication within this particular group of consumers. Based on the findings, suggestions for service management and marketing strategies are provided for apparel retail companies that target adolescents.

Keywords: Clothing buying motives, store selection criteria, adolescents, Croatia

1. Introduction

In this paper we are combining several research areas. The first one is the clothing and textile industry, the second is retail of apparel and fashion branding and the third is consumer behaviour with particular emphasis on adolescents as a specific consumer group. Therefore, the paper is divided accordingly. In the first part of the paper we will shortly describe the situation in the Croatian textile industry, and then we will give insights into retailing of clothing in Croatia. The next part will address major aspects of consumer behaviour of adolescents. The mentioned parts of the paper will be based on secondary literature and available statistical data. Finally, the last part of the paper will focus on primary research that was carried out on the sample of high-school students in Croatia.

The main goals of the primary research were: (1) to assess purchasing activities of adolescents in clothing retailing, (2) to evaluate motives of clothing selection, (3) to give an overview of preferred formats of retail stores.

2. The fashion market and position of the fashion industry in Croatia

Design and fashion represent an important social and economic phenomenon. Fashion reflects variations in style and captures all social phenomena in terms of a certain group or social class and forms the basis of a critical and aesthetic evaluation of the times (Ujevic et al., 2013: 181). The fashion industry employs many people and absorbs about 1/16 of the total consumption in the world. The textile and clothing industry is important also for the Croatian economy given the long tradition, and the significant number of employees and partnerships with European and world textile companies. GrilecKauric (2008) claims that in 2008, clothing consumption ranked fourth by value in Croatia (after food and non-alcoholic beverages; alcoholic beverages; housing and energy; and transport).

Modern society perceives fashion trends primarily through media events. One of the most popular fashion events in Croatia is BIPA FASHION.HR which significantly influenced the development of the local and regional fashion scene in recent years. Also, BIPA FASHION.HR offers an excellent affirmation platform for Croatian and regional fashion designers1.

The fundamental feature of the textile and clothing industry is low capital intensity, which refers to the fact that the fashion industry is heavily adjusting to the new global trends. Considering the movement of the whole industry in the European Union, it is apparent that the trends are highly variable. European textile production is characterized by a high level of outsourcing and strengthening competition from countries with lower labour costs, due to its labour intensity, high level of employment of a poorly educated workforce and relatively low investment costs2 (ILO, 2016). The limiting factors of the clothing industry are reflected in a very uncertain market, which is subject to the constant influence of fashion trends and short product lifecycles, underdeveloped business/production processes, small investments in technology, lack of well-known brands and weak enterprise competitiveness. Additional restrictions are the insufficiently developed distribution network, the workforce age structure, the underdeveloped award criteria incentives, the reluctance of the banking sector, the increased competition and the expected increase in costs.

According to the Croatian Chamber of Economy3, in the first half of 2015, the export value of the local textile-apparel industry reached 443 million EUR, which is about 30 million more than in the same period last year. However, imports also grew simultaneously to 701 million EUR or 41 million EUR more than in 2014. But, along with the great decrease in total employment over the past seven years, from 26 to 17 thousand and other negative trends, some entrepreneurs in this sector are still finding optimism as illustrated by the data on the number of companies. In 2008, there were a total of 678 companies while 2014 ended with 513 active apparel and 241 textile companies. The Croatian textile industry is mainly focused on finishing activities, which means that companies already have set prices and approved know-how from the foreign investor.

3. Retail apparel and global fashion brands in Croatia

Retail apparel is divided in two forms: in-store and out-of-store retail. When speaking of in-store retail the most common type of retail shops are boutiques, shopping centres and second hand shops, while the marketplace represents the most frequent type of out-of-store retail. Besides, another special retail category is electronic commerce.

Today we are witnessing the increasing closing of small boutique shops in private ownership in the city centre and the opening of large stores that offer exclusive brands, as is happening in all major European cities. Furthermore, clothing stores are increasingly moving to peripheral areas in new shopping centres that mix a multitude of stores in one place.

In addition to boutiques and shopping centres, second hand shops represent a third category of instore retail where used apparel is commonly sold at bargain prices. The specificity of this form of shop is the constantly changing assortment, usually once a week, and having one size only of each item. Although many believe that second hand shops sell only old, used apparel and no longer fashionable products, you can also find name brand and quality clothing there at very reasonable prices that have been used only several times or never. Most frequently it comes to the clothes that have been returned to the original store but cannot be resold, so they are sent to the second hand shops4.

The marketplace represents the oldest form of direct apparel sales. However, marketplace shopping is not particularly attractive because of the difficulties in trying clothes on and the total shopping experience leaves a bad impression on the customer. Marketplaces are also situated outdoors, so during the rainfall their sale is limited. Although personal selling is still considered to be traditional for retail apparel, the development of production and trade, urbanization, growing life standards, mass production, the development of various forms of commercial companies and many other factors are changing the role and importance of personal sales in the process of distribution (Bratko et al., 1996).

Changes in society and the economy have led to changes in selling techniques, which are taking new forms and adapting to new trading conditions. The contemporary trader has a significant role in increasing sales by discovering new products. Despite the somewhat reduced direct participation in personal sales, this form of business retains his role in providing services to the customer.

It can be said that fashion brands create styles and vice versa. Since clothing styles change over time it is necessary to adapt fashion brands to these changes. Marketing professionals recommend that 70% of the brand must be constant on a global level while 30% of the brand should adapt to the targeted geographic market (Ujevic et al., 2013: 166). Today, brand management is essential to achieve market success. One of the most common mistakes in brand management occurs when losing focus, or when focusing the brand on too many consumer segments.

There is a great danger that superficial brand observation skips some basic processes in strategic marketing management, and these are first and foremost clear market segmentation and targeting the exact segments of consumers. Global fashion brands such as Terranova, H&M and New Yorker have focused their product range on the younger population, so adolescents prefer the aforementioned brands mainly because of affordable prices (Annamma et al., 2012). H&M has a unique management model based on innovation and flexibility, while fashion vision is based on creativity and quality designs, including rapid response to market demands. An indispensable fashion brand among Croatian adolescents is the New Yorker that has experienced strong market growth and has been continuously increasing profits in recent years, which has contributed to its effective market positioning and strong expansion in the European market. Central logistics and efficient distribution network are factors that are successfully positioning their products on the market without paying attention to flexibly responding to market changes.

4. Adolescents as a target consumer group

Consumer psychology is a very important factor in textile and garment consumption because consumers primarily expect to satisfy their needs. Therefore, thanks to knowledge and thorough assessment of the psychological characteristics of consumers, the use and study of psychology has to directly affect consumer behaviour.

The psychological characteristics of consumers are very different, and among other they particularly depend on age, sex, education, occupation, environment impact and many other traits that are common or different for all consumer groups. Adolescents are certainly the most interesting consumer group of fashion brands that characterize the affordable prices in order to approach the general mass.

Adolescence is marked by numerous and complex development tasks, adjustments to various physical, psychological and emotional changes. Therefore, adolescence is a period of much anxiety, doubt and guilt. During this period, many young people are searching for their style and their purchase decisions are often influenced by others. The intention of this paper is also to examine which reference groups mostly affect the respondents.

A study conducted by Chen-Yu & Seock (2002) found that for US high school male adolescents, sexual attraction was the most important clothing motive, followed by recognition. For female adolescents, recreation was the predominant clothing motive, followed by sexual attraction.

Even though many factors affecting decisions of customers are most frequently beyond the control of the sales staff, their importance must be considered. In their comprehensive model of factors that influence the behaviour of customers, Kotier and Keller (2008) classified these factors into four groups, parts of which express the potency of certain groups, i.e. the degree of its impact on customer behaviour (Figure 1).

The first group brings together cultural actors - culture, subculture and social class. Culture includes the behaviour of society in the process of creating unique products, needs and consumption. The subculture is made up of four groups, namely: a national group representing ethnic preferences, religious groups with specific cultural preferences and taboos, racial groups that have special cultural styles and attitudes, and geographical areas as separate subcultures with a distinctive lifestyle. Social classes are relatively homogeneous and permanently divided among society that is hierarchically arranged and whose members share similar values, interests and behaviour.

The second group includes social factors that influence customer behaviour and contains reference groups, family and status. Reference groups have direct or indirect impact on the attitudes and behaviour of people. There are three types of reference groups: (1) membership groups are characterized by direct influence on a person belonging to a specific group, (2) aspiration groups are those to which a person does not belong, but expresses an aspiration for belonging and (3) dissociative groups that have a completely opposite effect on individuals compared to aspiration groups, because their values and behaviour are unacceptable for them. The roles and statuses are fundamental categories of functional behaviour and treatment of social forms as a coordinated system of action.

The third group comprises personal factors affecting consumer behaviour such as age and stage of life cycle, occupation, economic status, lifestyle and individual's personality. The fourth group of factors includes psychological factors that are manifested through motivation, perception, learning, beliefs and attitudes. Psychological factors have strong impact on consumers; some consumers will choose a particular product due to previous use, beautiful design and a tendency towards the specific manufacturer. Motives such as attractiveness, personality and interests of consumers in a fashion product are also important.

In addition to psychological factors, rational factors are also very important. They observe the customers' ways of thinking, reasoning and making decisions. The quality of materials and design are additional factors attracting the attention of consumers. The characteristics or attributes of fashion products also affect the purchase because their impact is reflected in the values, style or quality of the product. Clothing comfort is another essential factor that consumers evaluate when purchasing as well as the usefulness of the product itself.

Price is a rational factor that greatly influences the purchase, as consumers are still looking for ways to buy the best products at reasonable prices. Although it is mentioned that prices sometimes influence peoples' confidence, it can also dissuade consumers from buying a particular product if the consumer estimates the quality does not match the price ratio or the product is simply too expensive (Azevedo et al, 2009: 57).

Though all the above mentioned factors affect the adolescents' purchasing decisions, this research covered the following seven factors, such as: newspapers and books, the Internet, TV, celebrities, parents, friends and boyfriend/girlfriend. According to research findings, 42% of respondents agreed that Internet significantly affects their purchasing decisions; while 63% of respondents confirmed that magazines and books have the least impact on their purchasing decisions (detailed factor analysis is shown in the next chapter).

The way of buying certain products differs among customers. For some, this represents a complex process requiring plenty of time due to collecting information and comparing different brands in order to make a final purchasing decision. Other customers choose several products from the assortment, compare prices and make their final purchasing decision (Kesic, 2006: 167). These examples suggest the customer segmentation into prudent and impulsive buyers. According to the research findings, 60% of respondents are prudent buyers whilst only 8% of respondents represent impulsive buyers who buy clothes without much thought.

The mass media have great impact on the current customer's lifestyle. They have become an integral part of our lives and therefore have great power to influence the formation of public opinion and the opinions, attitudes and behaviour of society. The mass media have become the primary educators in general, especially for children and youth.

Also, reference groups may have impact on the purchasing decisions directly or indirectly (Kotier, Keller, 2008:153). In doing so, one does not necessarily have to be a member of a certain group formally, but an individual's association with a group can be based on psychological grounds, where he/she accepts the group's standards and the behaviours of the group members.

From the marketing point of view, the reference groups serve individuals as tentative recommendations when making purchasing decision. This group is not limited by size or membership, nor requires identification of an individual with a group. This research focused on reference groups that have immediate impact on an individual's purchasing decision, such as family, friends, colleagues and neighbours, also called primary groups. This type of group characterizes the strong and intimate bond among members, but also the intense impact on purchasing decisions and customer behaviour in general5. According to research findings, 43% of respondents agreed their parents influence their purchasing decisions, and 49% of respondents stated that friends mostly influence their purchasing decisions.

Friends are perceived as the most influential group on adolescents, replacing the family while making purchasing decisions (Kotier, Keller, 2008: 153).

j. Clothing motives and store selection criteria from the aspect of adolescents in Croatia

5.1 Research methodology and sample

The research survey was conducted on a high school student population in June 2016. Male and female respondents aged between 16 and 18 were surveyed. A large sample size provides more data for analysis. To ensure results with high explanatory power, the target survey population is 100. Table 1 shows relative frequency of sample characteristics.

The study was open to high school students with the following educational background: administrative officer (26 students), logistics (26 students) and grammar school (48 students). The majority of the respondents who participated in this study are aged 17 (71%), 6% of respondents are 16 years old, while 23% of respondents are 18 years old.

Based on the questionnaire components of prior studies (Chen-Yu et al., 2010; Chen-Yu, Seock, 2002), a modified questionnaire was developed, which consisted of five main parts: (1) purchasing activities, (2) clothing motives, (3) purchasing methods, (4) reference groups and (5) purchasing habits. The majority of questionnaire items were measured by a five-point Likert scale and adopted from Chen-You et al. (2010) research; other questionnaire items were self-developed. The questionnaire constructs and descriptions of each section are shown in Table 2.

The first section explores the purchasing activities of respondents such as frequency of buying clothes and the ways students pay for clothes (whether students pay themselves with pocket money or earned money, or their parents pay for the purchased clothing). The second section investigates clothing motives divided into four categories: (1) social approval, (2) recreation, (3) recognition and (4) image expression.

The third part of the questionnaire refers to purchasing methods where respondents are identified as prudent or impulsive buyers, while the fourth part of the questionnaire analyses the influence of different reference groups on respondents' purchasing decisions. The last part of the questionnaire aims to identify purchasing habits of adolescents in terms of preferred retail format and online shopping habits.

5.2 Research findings

The first part of the questionnaire refers to purchasing activities. In terms of frequency of buying clothes, the majority of respondents answered that they shop less than once a month (45%), while 34% of respondents buy clothes 2-3 times a year; 21% of adolescents surveyed buy clothes 2-3 times a week, while none of the respondents shop on a weekly basis.

When male and female participants' clothesshopping frequencies were compared, the results showed that 41% of male students buy clothes 2-3 times a year, while the majority of the female respondents (49%) purchase clothes less than once a month (Figure 2 and 3).

In terms of paying for the purchased clothes, the majority of students are financed by parents (71%), while only 5% of respondents buy clothes with earned money and 24% of the students use their pocket money for buying clothes (Figure 4).

The second part of the questionnaire examined clothing motives (Table 3) in terms of social approval, recreation, recognition and image exprèssion. Clothing motives were measured on a fivepoint Tikert scale, ranged from "Strongly Agree" (1), "Neutral" (3), to "Strongly Disagree" (5).

The majority of adolescents wear branded clothes, which is also the case in this research where 43% of respondents often buy well-known brands. Comfort is also an important factor when purchasing clothes, even among adolescents (95% of respondents agreed with this statement).

Young people love fashion and looking forward to dressing fashionably. Accordingly, 57% of respondents consider themselves fashion conscious, while only 5% of the students do not think they are fashion conscious. There is no big difference among male and female respondents; as expected, a large share of the female population consider themselves to be fashion conscious (63%), while only 4% of the female students disagree. But, also male students apparently follow the fashion trends and consider themselves fashion conscious (50%). Also explored is whether students feel better in clothes similar to those worn by others or prefer to stand out among them; 37% of respondents do not want to attract attention with their clothing, while only 4% want to be recognized among others. When buying clothes, 48% of respondents buy clothing similar to what others are wearing.

Respectively a large number of respondents is influenced by their friends' opinions when it comes to buying and probably will not buy clothes their friends would not have liked (67%). This result confirmed the impact of reference groups on the clothes selection and purchasing behaviour of the individuals. In order to determine the purchasing methods of adolescents (impulsive or prudent buyer), four items of purchasing habits were used (see Table 4).

The majority of students carefully plan what to buy while shopping. Even 66% of students agree with this statement, while only 8% of respondents strongly disagree, and these respondents fall into the category of impulsive buyers. It is interesting that even 63% of respondents could not resist buying clothes they really like, which is great for clothing manufacturers but also for traders.

The fourth section of the questionnaire examined reference groups or factors that influence the respondents' purchasing habits (see Figure 5). Figure 5 shows that the Internet has the greatest influence on the purchasing habits of respondents (58%), while only 11% of respondents disagree with this statement. Also TV strongly influences the adolescents' purchasing habits (49%), which is not surprising because the media plays a major role in the fashion industry today.

When it comes to reference groups, this paper considers family, friends and boyfriend/girlfriend as the most influential since adolescents have an intimate connection with these groups. The results in Figure 5 show that friends mostly influence adolescents purchasing habits (39%), while family and boyfriend or girlfriend affect 43% of respondents.

The final part of the questionnaire examined the preferred retail formats among adolescents. In addition to the shopping centre and boutique shops, the marketplace, online purchasing and second-hand shop are offered to respondents (Figure 6).

By following trends prevailing in the Croatian market as many as 75% of respondents purchase clothes in a shopping centre. Figure 6 shows that only 14% of respondents purchase clothes in a boutique. In order to survive in the market and to protect their position, boutique shops should focus their range on a specific market niche and specialize in that area. Also, buying clothes in second-hand shops is still not recognized on the Croatian market as a desirable form of purchase, which is confirmed by the fact that only 1% of respondents bought clothes in second-hand stores. Almost 80% of respondents claim they have never bought in a second-hand shop, while only 21% of respondents buy sometimes. Online sales definitely has potential on the Croatian market, where 41% of respondents sometimes buy clothes online, while 8% often use online sales channels.

6. Conclusion

Changes in society and the economy have led to changes in the selling techniques, taking on new forms, and adapting to new business trade conditions. Traditional clothing stores and boutiques are increasingly closing and moving from city centres to shopping centres in peripheral areas. This is also a trend in Croatia, which is confirmed by research results where 75% of respondents usually buy clothes in shopping centres.

The purposes of the study were to understand high school adolescents' buying behaviour and to examine the similarities and differences between male and female buyers as well as impulse and non-impulse shoppers. When clothing purchase motivations of male and female participants were compared, the results showed that males and females had similar degrees of conformity, sexual attraction, and recognition motivations. As expected, slight differences were found between male and female participants in shopping frequency. Female participants shopped more often than males. Examination of adolescents' impulse-buying behaviour indicated that about half of the participants were impulse shoppers and half were prudent shoppers.

Considering all factors, the media (the Internet and TV) have the greatest influence on the adolescents' buying decisions. They influence the formation of public opinion and attitudes and behaviour of people in society. The most susceptible to media influence are the young people i.e. adolescents who are still looking for their fashion attitude. More than 60% of respondents identified themselves as being influenced by the media while making purchasing decisions. The paper also demonstrated the influence of reference groups on adolescents purchasing decisions, particularly the impact of family and friends. Consistent with the results of the existing studies (Chen-Yu, Seock, 2002), friends were the most important clothing information source for both sexes; 49% of respondents claim that friends influence their purchasing decisions, while family influences 43% of respondents.

When asked where they most frequently do their purchasing, 75% of respondents chose shopping centres, 4% the marketplace, 14% of respondents buy clothes in a boutique, 6% of respondents buy online, while only 1% usually buys apparel in the second hand shops. That confirms the claim that new and large retail formats are becoming more and more important to contemporary shoppers.

This research has a set of limitations. Firstly, the size of the sample should be increased in future research and it should include adolescents from more high schools in order to be able to generalize results of the study. Secondly, the research can be further developed by applying more sophisticated statistical methods in order to scrutinize the most important factor groups of purchasing behaviour within this particular consumer group.

Sidebar

MOTIVI KUPOVINE ODJECE I KRITERIJI ODABIRA PRODAVAONICE - SLUCAJ HRVATSKIH ADOLESCENATA

SAZETAK

Cilj je ovog rada analizirati motive kupovine odjece i kriterije odabira prodavaonice hrvatskih adolescenata. U radu se ispituju njihove sklonosti, stavovi i ponasanja pri kupnji odjece - hoce li adolescenti s razlicitim primarnim motivima odijevanja imati slicne ili razlicite kriterije odabira prodavaonice. Takoder, u radu se istrazuje na koji nacin danasnji adolescenti trose novae na odjecu, jesu li skloniji kupovini brendirane odjece ili ne. Konacno, u radu je objasnjeno kupuju li hrvatski adolescenti radije u malim ili velikim specijaliziranim prodavaonicama odjece ili su skloniji online kupovini ili pak odjecu kupuju u second-hand prodavaonicama. Takoder, u radu je analiziran utjecaj drustva na oblikovanje stavova i odluka adolescenata o izboru prodavaonice i prefereneijama kupovine odjece. Rezultati istrazivanja pokazali su da hrvatski adolescenti preferiraju trgovacke centre kao maloprodajni format. Osim toga, adolescenti nemaju u potpunosti razvijen stav o modi i odjeci, stoga su pri odabiru odjece podlozni stavovima obitelji i prijatelja. Takoder, i internet i TV su ocijenjeni kao utjecajni kanali za komunikaeiju unutar ove kategorije potrosaca. Na temelju rezultata istrazivanja, dani su prijedlozi za upravljanje uslugama i marketinskim strategijama maloprodajnih poduzeca s odjecom za adolescente.

Kljucne rijeci: motivi kupovine odjece, kriterij odabira prodavaonice, adolescenti, Republika Hrvatska

Footnote

(ENDNOTES)

1 Vedernji list (2016), "BIPA Fashion.hr reports", available at: http://www.vecernji.hr/tag/bipa-fashionhr-249406 (Accessed on: August 23, 2016)

2 International Labour Organization (2014), "Wages and working hours in the textiles", available at: http://www.ilo.0rg/wcmsp5/ groups/public/(5)ed_dialogue/(5)sector/documents/publication/wcms_300463.pdf (Accessed on: August 20, 2016)

3 Croatian Chamber of Economy (2015), "Hrvatska maloprodaja u skladu s europskim i svjetskim trendovima", available at: http:// www.hgk.hr/sektor-centar/sektor-trgovina (Accessed on: July 15, 2016)

4 Petersen, L. (2016), "Second-Hand Shopping: How to Save at Thrift Stores &. Consignment Shops", available at: http://www. moneycrashers.com/second-hand-shopping-thrift-stores/ (Accessed on: August 8, 2016)

5 Kovadevid, 2. (2015), "Funkcije obitelji", available at: http://www.psihoportal.com/index.php/hr/str-prilozi/8o8-funkcije-obitelji (Accessed on: August 22, 2016)

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