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Received 18 September 2017, accepted 12 December 2017, available online 20 March 2018
© 2018 Authors. This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/).
Abstract. Linen textiles appear to be some of the oldest in the world. Nowadays flax fibres are coming back to the fashion industry thanks to their freshness, comfort, and innovative technologies providing the elegance of and demand for linen clothing. Direct dyes are popular for dyeing cellulosic fibres due to their reasonable price and easy use. As the first synthetic dyes they are currently used for dyeing textile materials in order to repair and consolidate the threads. Unfortunately, these dyes have only moderate fastness properties. Many studies have been conducted to improve substantivity of anionic direct dyes for cellulosic materials. In most cases the suggested methods are expensive and technologically complicated. We examined the colour properties of the fabric dyed with direct dyes in the case the linen fabric was modified by alkali and enzyme BEISOL PRO treatment. To evaluate the modification effect, the colour characteristics before and after light test were used, and the fastness to rubbing as well as mechanical properties were determined. The colour characteristics of dyed fabrics and the fastness to rubbing differed depending on the used dye. The wet fastness to rubbing was lower than the dry fastness. The tensile strength and elongation in the warp direction were superior in all cases and did not depend on the used dye. The influence of modification type on fabric light resistance was not significant.
Key words: linen fabric, alkali, enzyme, pretreatment, colour characteristics, rubbing fastness, mechanical properties.
Linane kangas ja sellest valmistatud tooted on ajalooliselt ühed vanimad tuntud tekstiilmaterjalid. Kuid nende kasutamine tänapäeval on toimunud vahelduva eduga, mis on seotud sünteetiliste ja tehiskiudude turule tulekuga. Siiski on linane tekstiilmaterjal teatud perioodilisusega taaskasutusel, sest loodusliku kiuna on sel omadusi, mis puuduvad teistel kiududel, suurendades turu nõudlust linase kui loodusliku materjali järele.
Linase materjali kasutamisel näiteks rõivatööstuses on tähtis värvus. Linase materjali värvimisel on olnud kasutatavamaks värviklassiks otsevärvid. Kuid nende puuduseks on suhteliselt nõrk värvipüsivus (pleekimiskindlus) kiududel. Selle puuduse olemust on palju uuritud. Enamikul juhtudel on väljatöötatud meetodid anioontüüpi otsevärvide värvipüsivuse tõstmiseks kallid ja tehnoloogiliselt keerukad....