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How wonderful to sit by the fire with a plate of venison stew and a glass of good wine after a day in the hills-or, if alighting off the northbound sleeper, to breakfast on fresh coffee and still-warm scones before setting off on foot. Steam returned to the line in 1984 and the Jacobite now runs twice daily between Fort William and Mallaig during the season. Since 2001, when Warner Bros filmed parts of the 'Harry Potter' films at Glenfinnan, it's been synonymous with the Hogwarts Express. Mary Miers Where to stay Familyrun Arisaig House hotel, once an SOE headquarters, is a few miles from the Mallaig terminus (01687 450730; www.arisaighouse.co.uk) or take the ferry to Skye and stay at Eilean Iarmain hotel (01471 833332; http:// eileaniarmain.co.uk) or Kinloch Lodge (www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk), both quite near the Armadale ferry terminal.