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FOR India, Kalapani is a military post commanding the pilgrim and trade routes into Tibet through the Lipu Lekh pass. Nepalese politicians, though, say it lies in their territory. The dispute has aroused Nepal's old fears of Indian dominance, stirred by worries about India's recent nuclear tests. In June, left-wing parties in Nepal, headed by the Marxist-Leninist Party, organised a protest march on Kalapani. Indian troops warned the demonstrators to keep their distance. They did so, but appealed to the United Nations to intervene.
The...