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Given the high mortality rate among restaurants, it's always a triumph of the spirit to find an operation that makes it out ofits adolescence. This year the 140-seat Tennessee Mountain Restaurant in New York really has something to celebratethe Soho barbecue specialist has been in business for 21 years.
Owned by Alan D. Fleischman, Tennessee Mountain on Spring Street has managed to ride out the tectonic shifts in the New York dining scene as well as the evolutionary changes in its Soho neighborhood since opening back in 1982. In the earlv '80s Soho was still known for its loft-space bargains, trendy storefront businesses and art galleries. These...