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4 Park Ave., at 33rd St. (212-889-3369)--For forty-one years, Wolfgang Zwiener was a waiter at Peter Luger, the meat mecca in Williamsburg. Earlier this year, he left with some of his mates and set up a rival post in the middle of Manhattan, on the ground floor of the old Vanderbilt Hotel. You'd think that the last thing this or any city needs is another steak house: how many bachelor parties, closing dinners, and Republican Conventions can there be? Need doesn't apply, though, when the newcomer is so carefully modelled on a place like Luger's, where the indulgences are idiosyncratic and state of the art. Zwiener...