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Formica-topped tables, cheery yellow walls and paintings of fish characterise the unpretentious Green Street Seafood Cafe (01225 448707), which has just opened above the Fish Market in Bath. Don't be fooled, however: early visitors are already making comparisons with Rick Stein's operation in Cornwall, and though the young chef, Mitchell Tonks, is not being hyped, he does come from Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons.
His partner, Robert Clifford Wing, is a Cornish fisherman who runs his own wholesale distribution business and owns his own boat. There is nothing like an...