Spectral wave transformation model for simulating refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting coastal structures

Abstract

On the basis of the wave action balance equation which incorporates refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave-current interaction, a directional spectral wave transformation model WABED is developed for predicting the irregular wave refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting structures in coastal regions. In the model, diffraction is taken into account by introducing a term formulated from a parabolic approximation wave equation, and reflection is calculated through a back-marching numerical approach at the reflecting boundary. Two experimental data sets are used to examine the performance of present model with regard to wave characteristics around reflecting coastal structures. One is from a physical experiment at idealized inlet with parallel jetties, while the other is from a laboratory study on a coastal project of the concave breakwater. Reasonably good agreements are found for both cases, revealing the applicability of the present model for predicting combined wave refraction-diffraction processes with strongly reflecting coastal structures.