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In the time that it will take you to read this article, 54,000 hot dogs will be eaten in the United States. In spite of the new snootiness of American food, our obsession with freshness and our revived interest in good health, this nation continues to consume hot dogs at the rate of 50 million a day.
And it looks as if that number is about to increase. As our gastronomic patriotism increases, hot dog lovers are coming out of the closet. People who were once embarrassed to own up to their hot-dog habit can now be seen with mustard on their mouths. Old dogs are learning new tricks, and plain old hot dogs are threatening to turn into high-class haute dogs. These days you find hot dogs in the strangest places.
Consider, for example, Wally's liquor store in Westwood. People drive there from all over town to buy wine, 20 kinds of olive oil and single-malt scotches. They have an incredible selection of Cognac, stock the wine cellars of some very important people, and offer seminars with names like "Caviar" and "Single Malt Scotch." But what is this new sign stretched across their window? It seems to say "Wally Dogs."
It does, in fact, say Wally Dogs. And proprietor Steve Wallace is very serious about his new venture. "I talked to a lot of people before I did this," he says, offering me a chili dog. The dog part is plump and juicy, the chili part surprisingly grease-free. "Then I found out who supplied all the places that I like-Wiener Factory, Pink's, Carneys. I got all their products and did tastings in the store. Every time a supplier came in to make a delivery, I'd get him to tell me which he liked best. I tried everything."
Wallace pressed his customers into service, too; for a while it was impossible to get out of his...