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Victoria Laurie enjoys a Perth classic with a cool, contemporary touch
THE art deco-style Lawson apartment block is an architectural gem on a city corner block in Perth. Built in the early 1900s, its sandstone elegance and Swan River views make it a perfect bolthole for corporate renters. They also flock downstairs to Balthazar, a cosy restaurant that is Perth's closest equivalent to Melbourne's older European-style bistros such as Florentino's.
History lingers in this building's dark wood interior and ornate ironwork window grilles. The Lawson building was where state politicians set up their war office in 1941, amid fears that government buildings might be bombed. Rumour has it that even West Australian-born prime minister John Curtin and his war cabinet met here from time to time.
When our dining trio enters Balthazar's dimly lit bar area, there are no men in 1940s-style dark suits; open-shirted exec types sit drinking on high wooden stools at marble benches, laptops propped at their feet.
Our guest from Sydney, a regular restaurant-goer, says she likes the ambience and the speedy arrival of our dry, delicate Pierre Moncuit champagne ($25 a glass). Without being rushed by staff, we wander in to find our restaurant table. Again, the Sydneysider approves of the crowded but convivial dining room with its black and white tessellated floor, metal racks of wine and wooden-framed glass doors.
In 10 years of business, Balthazar has become a favourite of the business and legal fraternities; the Supreme Court and Perth stock exchange are a brisk walk away. But there's none of the ultra-trendy decor or over-complicated menus that try-hard establishments think they need to offer...