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© 2019. This work is published under https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 (the “License”). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.

Abstract

Material and Methods Determination of the concentration of the UV filters and SPF / UVA-PF in-silico The amounts of OCT, BENZ-3 and MBBT used in the formulations were at the permitted levels,18 Different concentrations of three UV filters were evaluated by the in-silico Online BASF Sunscreen simulator, obtaining solar protection factor for UVB (SPF) and protection factor for UVA (UVA-PF), Combination 1 was made of 3% OCT, 6% BENZ-3 and 6,4% MBBT (total of 15,4% UV filters), and Combination 2 was made of 6% OCT, 8% BENZ-3 and 10% MBBT (total of 24% UV filters), Materials The compounds used in the formulations were purchased in different suppliers, OCT (98,4% v/v, supplied by CosmeTrade Commercial, Porto Alegre/RS/Brazil), MBBT (59,42% w/v, D'Altomare Química, Santo Amaro/ SP/Brazil, Manufacturer BASF), BENZ-3 (99,80%, Audaz Säo Paulo /SP/Brazil), blueberry extract (9,68% of anthocyanins, Viafarma Supplier, Manufactured by Quimer, Säo Paulo/SP/Brazil), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) (Methocel K15M®, Colorcon, Cotia/ SP), butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) (Alpha Química, Porto Alegre/RS), ethylenediamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA) (Synth, Diadema/SP), imidazodinylurea (Audaz Brasil, Säo Paulo/SP), octyl stearate (Alpha Química, Porto Alegre/RS), polysorbate 80 (Neon) and Lanette N (Alpha Química, Porto Alegre/RS) were used, Solvents and reagents used include N, N-dimethylformamide (Dynamic), methyl alcohol (Dynamic), acetonitrile high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) grade (Sigma-Aldrich), glacial acetic acid (Audaz, Brasil, Säo Paulo/SP), and ultra-pure water in a Direct-Q® system (Millipore, USA), Preparation of microparticles (MPs) The concentrations of the components were defined considering the maintenance of the same concentration of UV filters in all formulations providing an adequate SPF/ UVA-PF (see in the silico mathematical modeling), The other compounds followed the permissible concentrations in the legislation, and are commonly used, Pilot formulations were developed to obtain a homogeneous formulation capable to incorporate the compounds, Two MPs formulations named MPMBBT+B and MPMBBT (without blueberry) were prepared and composed of HPMC, polysorbate 80, MBBT and blueberry (B) and water to make a 100% composition (according to Table 1), Initially, three distinct phases were prepared in water-bath under heating at 70 ° C and stirring for 90 min and then pooled together, A spray dryer (LabMaq, MSD 1,0) was used to dry the samples and to obtain MPs (inlet temperature of 115°C, flow rate of 0,6 L/h), The vials containing samples were sealed and stored in a desiccator followed by drying, A scanning electron microscopy (SEM) (Vega LM3/Tescan Oxford EDS Instrument) was used to study morphology, Samples were mounted with carbon adhesive on an aluminum holder, covered with gold in a metallizer Quorum (Q150R ES), and photographed at 20 kV, Preparation of multifunctional cosmetic sunscreens containing UV filters and blueberry extract Three emulsions formulations were prepared and named as formulation A, B and C, Formulations A and B presented MPs in their composition, Formulation C did not contain any MPs, UV filters and the additives content were kept constant in all formulations, Blueberry extract was present in the formulations A and C (Table 2), The components were weighed, separated according to the phase, and heated to 70-75°C, The aqueous phase 1 was composed of EDTA, imidazodinylurea, MBBT, polysorbate 80 and water, EDTA was used as chelating agent, imidazodinylurea was employed as the preservative, MBBT as UVA/UVB filter, polysorbate 80 was employed as surfactant in order to increase MBBT solubilization, The phase 2 contained octyl stearate, OCT, BENZ-3, BHT and water, Octyl stearate was used as solubilizer of OCT and BENZ-3, OCT and BENZ-3 were used as UVB filters, BHT was applied as antioxidant to prevent blueberry oxidation, Phase 1 was poured into the phase 2 and vigorously stirred, Phase 3 was added to formulations A, B and C previously prepared, MP powder MPMBBT+ B and MPMBBT were added to formulation A and B respectively, Regarding to emulsion C, phase 3 was prepared under heating and stirring and then added to formulation C, Characterization and physicochemical preliminary stability assessment of multifunctional formulations A, B and C The formulations A, B and C were characterized for their organoleptic characteristics, pH at 5% (w/v, in water) (potentiometer Digimed), centrifugation test (lg of each formulation subjected to 3000 rpm for 30 minutes in Centribio centrifuge), and rheological behavior. Normality was assessed by Dagostino Pearson's test, The results were analyzed by one-way ANOVA followed by the Friedman test (P < 0,05), Antioxidant activity of the blueberry extract The sequestering activity of DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2picrylhydrazyl) radical was determined,26,27 DPPH (0,1 mM) was prepared in 80% methanol (v/v in water), A 0,1 mL aliquot of the blueberry extract (1 mg/mL in 80% methanol) was added to 2,9 mL of the DPPH, homogenized and kept at room temperature in the dark for 30 min, Using a UV spectrophotometer (Lambda 20/ Perkin Elmer spectrophotometer), the absorbance was measured at 517 nm, A solution containing methanol and DPPH was used as control, The calibration curve was obtained with vitamin C solutions (40,0-120,0 pg/ mL), The sequestering activity of the DPPH radical by the extract was expressed as pg/mL antioxidant capacity equivalent to vitamin C, Results and Discussion In-silico determination of the concentration of the UV filters and SPF/UVA-PF In-silico and in-vitro tests are important tools in the development of sunscreens to determine preliminary qualitative and quantitative concentrations of the UV filters,28 The use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator showed good correlations with in-vivo results, representing a valuable tool in the development of sunscreens,29 Radiation blocking capability for the combinations 1 and 2 were 96% and 98%, respectively, The in-vitro UVAPF and in-vivo UVA-PF for the combinations 1 and 2 were 13/16 and 23/21, respectively, Critical wavelength for both combinations was 380 nm, a wavelength showing suitable UVA protection, Combination 1 and 2 presented SPF of 30 and 50, respectively, The combinations 2 presented a higher SPF/UVA-PF due to the higher UV filters concentrations, For this reason, this combination was selected for further studies, The legislation requires at least an SPF of 6, an UVA-PF corresponding to 1/3 of the SPF and a critical wavelength of at least 370 nm5 which were found in both combinations, The UV filters selected for this study are safe; OCT is a liposoluble and photostable; BENZ-3 is a commonly used UVB filter; and MBBT is a photostable sunscreen with low risk of skin penetration,28,30 Characterization of MBBT and blueberry-loaded microparticles (MPMBBT+B) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MPMBBT) Initially, in an attempt to prepare MP containing the three UV filters used in this study, we employed the solvent evaporation methodology, We prepared an emulsion, In the oily phase, we added OCT and BENZ-3, In the aqueous phase we added MBBT and blueberry extract, However, during the use of rotary evaporator to remove acetone used as solvent, a sticky composition was obtained, In the technique used in this work, only the MBBT and the blueberry extract were microencapsulated, Before drying, the MP were milky in appearance and runny, MPmbbt+b and MPmbbt were slightlY pink and respectively, The MP turned into a cohesive mass due to the presence of MBBT, Figure 1 shows the SEM micrograms of both compositions, Formulation MPMBBT+B showed microspheres characteristics with the roughest and most clumped wall, while MPMBBT (without blueberry extract) had smoother surface with characteristics similar to micro capsules, The size of MPMBBT+B was in the range of 100 to 200 pm, because these MPs formed cluster. [...]tape stripping can be used to predict sunscreen efficacy. MPs increased the stability and the blueberry increased the photoprotective and anti-oxidant capacity. [...]cosmetic containing MBBT and blueberry-loaded MPs presented the best performance as sunscreen.

Details

Title
Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M®-Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance
Author
Schiavon, Daiana 1 ; Martini, Daniela Novello 1 ; Brocco, Gabriela 1 ; Santos, Júlia Scherer 2 ; Anzolin, Ana Paula 3 ; Rossato-Grando, Luciana Grazziotin; Omidian, Hamid; Bertol, Charise Dallazem

 Curso de Farmácia, Universidade de Passo Fundo, Passo Fundo, Brasil 
 Curso de Farmácia, Centro Universitário Uniâo Dinámica das Cataratas, Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná, Brasil 
 Programa de Pös-Graduaçâo em Envelhecimento Humano, Universidade de Passo Fundo, Passo Fundo, Brasil 
Pages
241-248
Section
Research Article
Publication year
2019
Publication date
2019
Publisher
Tabriz University of Medical Sciences
ISSN
22285881
e-ISSN
22517308
Source type
Scholarly Journal
Language of publication
English
ProQuest document ID
2267724607
Copyright
© 2019. This work is published under https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0 (the “License”). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.