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© 2022 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.

Abstract

Labdanum resin from Cistus ladanifer L. (Cistaceae) is an abundant natural resource in the Iberian Peninsula worth being explored in a sustainable manner. It is already used in the cosmetic industry; mainly by the fragrances/perfumery sector. However, given the highest market share and traditional uses, labdanum resin also has the potential to be used and valued as a cosmetic ingredient for skincare. Aiming to evaluate this potential, labdanum methanolic absolute and fractions purified by column chromatography were characterized by UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS and then evaluated for UV-protection, antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Labdanum absolute represented ~70% of the resin; diterpenoid and flavonoid fractions represented ~75% and 15% of the absolute, respectively. Labdane-type diterpenoids and methylated flavonoids were the main compounds in labdanum absolute and in diterpenoid and flavonoid fractions, respectively. Labdanum absolute showed a spectrophotometric sun protection factor (SPF) near 5, which is mainly due to flavonoids, as the flavonoids’ SPF was 13. Low antioxidant activity was observed, with ABTS radical scavenging being the most significant (0.142 ± 0.017, 0.379 ± 0.039 and 0.010 ± 0.003 mgTE/mgExt, for the absolute and flavonoid and terpene fractions, respectively). Anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activity are reported here for the first time, by the inhibition of elastase activity (22% and 13%, by absolute and flavonoid extract at 1 mg/mL), and by the inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cells (84% to 98%, at 15 µg/mL extracts, flavonoid fraction the most active), respectively. Antimicrobial activity, against relevant skin and cosmetic product microorganisms, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, and Escherichia coli, revealed that only S. aureus was susceptible to labdanum absolute (MIC: 1.2 mg/mL) and its fractions (MIC: <0.3 mg/mL). In conclusion, labdanum resin showed potential to be used in sunscreen cosmetics, anti-inflammatory skincare cosmeceuticals or medicines but has low potential as a cosmetic product preservative given the low antioxidant and low-spectrum antimicrobial activities.

Details

Title
Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L.: A Natural and Sustainable Ingredient for Skin Care Cosmetics with Relevant Cosmeceutical Bioactivities
Author
Frazão, David F 1   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Martins-Gomes, Carlos 2   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Steck, Jan L 3 ; Keller, Judith 3   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Delgado, Fernanda 4   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Gonçalves, José C 4   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Bunzel, Mirko 3   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Cristina M B S Pintado 4   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Teresa Sosa Díaz 5   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Silva, Amélia M 6   VIAFID ORCID Logo 

 Center for Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences (CITAB-UTAD), University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro (UTAD), Quinta de Prados, 5001-801 Vila Real, Portugal; [email protected] (D.F.F.); [email protected] (C.M.-G.); Plant Biotechnology Center of Beira Interior (CBPBI), Quinta da Senhora de Mércules, Apartado 119, 6001-909 Castelo Branco, Portugal; [email protected] (F.D.); [email protected] (J.C.G.); [email protected] (C.M.B.S.P.) 
 Center for Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences (CITAB-UTAD), University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro (UTAD), Quinta de Prados, 5001-801 Vila Real, Portugal; [email protected] (D.F.F.); [email protected] (C.M.-G.) 
 Department of Food Chemistry and Phytochemistry, Institute of Applied Biosciences, Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), Adenauerring 20a, Building 50.41, 76131 Karlsruhe, Germany; [email protected] (J.L.S.); [email protected] (J.K.); [email protected] (M.B.) 
 Plant Biotechnology Center of Beira Interior (CBPBI), Quinta da Senhora de Mércules, Apartado 119, 6001-909 Castelo Branco, Portugal; [email protected] (F.D.); [email protected] (J.C.G.); [email protected] (C.M.B.S.P.); Polytechnic Institute of Castelo Branco-School of Agriculture (IPCB-ESA), Quinta da Senhora de Mércules, 6001-909 Castelo Branco, Portugal 
 Department of Plant Biology, Ecology and Earth Sciences, Faculty of Science, University of Extremadura, 06006 Badajoz, Spain; [email protected] 
 Center for Research and Technology of Agro-Environmental and Biological Sciences (CITAB-UTAD), University of Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro (UTAD), Quinta de Prados, 5001-801 Vila Real, Portugal; [email protected] (D.F.F.); [email protected] (C.M.-G.); Department of Biology and Environment, School of Life Sciences and Environment, UTAD, Quinta de Prados, 5001-801 Vila Real, Portugal 
First page
1477
Publication year
2022
Publication date
2022
Publisher
MDPI AG
e-ISSN
22237747
Source type
Scholarly Journal
Language of publication
English
ProQuest document ID
2674388979
Copyright
© 2022 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.