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© 2024 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.

Abstract

As a functional extraction medium, natural deep eutectic solvents (NADESs) can dissolve various plant metabolites. Those solvents provide untapped potential for creating novel green extracts with distinctive phytochemical signatures and unique biological activities. This is particularly relevant given the rising need for eco-friendly and sustainable skin care products. The main aim of this work was to optimize the most efficient natural deep eutectic solvents (NADESs) for extracting bioactives from 18 medicinal herbs applicable to the cosmetic industry. Selection of the most potent herbs involved assessing their conventional extracts for tyrosinase inhibition, antioxidant activity, and keratinocyte cytotoxicity. Moreover, we analyzed the phenolic profile using ultra-high-pressure liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry (UHPLC/MS) and spectrophotometric assays such as total phenolic (TPC) and flavonoid content (TFC). Using the COSMO-RS method, we modeled the solubility of 12 phenolics in 64 virtual NADESs and selected the 7 most promising ones for further experimental validation. NADESs, including betaine-urea, betaine-proline, and betaine-lysine, were computationally chosen and demonstrated the highest levels of TPC and antioxidative capacity, as confirmed by in vitro assays. The proposed combination of NADES herbal extracts represents a promising natural constituent for the cosmetic industry.

Details

Title
NADES-Based Extracts of Selected Medicinal Herbs as Promising Formulations for Cosmetic Usage
Author
Ivkovic, Djurdja 1   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Cvijetic, Ilija 2   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Radoicic, Aleksandra 1   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Stojkovic-Filipovic, Jelena 3 ; Trifkovic, Jelena 2 ; Maja Krstic Ristivojevic 4   VIAFID ORCID Logo  ; Ristivojevic, Petar 2   VIAFID ORCID Logo 

 Innovation Centre of Faculty of Chemistry Ltd., University of Belgrade-Faculty of Chemistry, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia; [email protected] (D.I.); [email protected] (A.R.) 
 Department of Analytical Chemistry, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Chemistry, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia; [email protected] (I.C.); [email protected] (J.T.) 
 Clinic of Dermatovenereology, Clinical Center of Serbia, Department of Dermatovenereology, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Medicine, Dr Subotića Starijeg 8, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia; [email protected] 
 Department of Biochemistry, University of Belgrade-Faculty of Chemistry, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia 
First page
992
Publication year
2024
Publication date
2024
Publisher
MDPI AG
e-ISSN
22279717
Source type
Scholarly Journal
Language of publication
English
ProQuest document ID
3059672265
Copyright
© 2024 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/). Notwithstanding the ProQuest Terms and Conditions, you may use this content in accordance with the terms of the License.