Development of a parametric production jacket pattern for an automated pattern-making system

Abstract

Automating the drafting process significantly reduces time and cost, previously dependent on the personal intuition and expertise of pattern makers. Moreover, it has the potential to contribute to the automation of the entire production process. However, the integration of algorithms into the patterns is necessary to automate the drafting of patterns directly on computers based on the pattern maker's intuition. Parametric patterns, which express the silhouette, a formative constraint intimately linked to the pattern, through drafting formulas utilizing key body dimensions as variables, present a promising alternative for the automation of the drafting process. This study develops parametric production patterns for automated garment manufacturing processes by integrating ease allowances and design elements into basic patterns. Leveraging the zero-ease allowance pattern from previous studies, we created basic parametric patterns by incorporating constant values into the ratio formula of parametric nude patterns. Subsequently, the rules for applying design elements were added to develop production patterns of various sizes. The developed patterns were compared with those generated using conventional grading methods. The results indicate that the parametric production patterns closely maintain fit and silhouette, demonstrating their potential as automated alternatives to conventional drafting methods solely based on size specifications and body measurements. Furthermore, we believe that through subsequent studies and analyzing a broader range of garment types and sizes, the methodology of the parametric production pattern developed in this research will contribute to establishing foundational algorithms for automating the process of garment pattern generation.

Introduction

In the ready-made industry, the production pattern varies with production systems. However, a common practice involves crafting production patterns for the central size dummy selected by individual companies, followed by creating grading patterns for various sizes. Each company produced a central size dummy based on the average body size of their target customer demographic (Yoon, 2016). The production pattern for the central size is regarded as the finalized basic pattern that best reflects the designer's fit intentions after undergoing multiple fitting processes using a central size dummy. Once the central size production pattern is complete, grading processes are implemented to generate patterns for the entire size range while maintaining a consistent fit by incorporating deviations.

In most garment manufacturing companies, production patterns typically involve a series of fitting processes, which are often reliant on the personal sensibilities and expertise of the pattern makers. During this process, production patterns lack a systematic approach that uses body measurements to facilitate size-specific pattern generation, resulting in the presence of pattern forms without a standardized system. Consequently, in the garment pattern-making process, grading procedures are essential to generate patterns of all sizes (Datta & Seal, 2018; Islam et al., 2020; Ondogan & Erdogan, 2006). Although the experience and intuition of pattern makers aid in swiftly adjusting patterns during garment production, the absence of a standardized approach to production patterns presents a significant challenge when attempting computerized pattern grading (Istook, 2002). The automation of the pattern-making process can lead to substantial time and cost savings by reducing reliance on the personal sensibilities and expertise of pattern makers and can contribute to automating the production process.

To draft garment patterns using computer programs, algorithms must be integrated into the patterns (Yoon, 2016). The drafting method, which comprises a drafting formula and sequence, is essential in embodying these algorithms. Xiu et al. (2011) coined the term "parametric patterns" to refer to patterns that effectively represent both measurement and geometric constraints. These parametric patterns articulate silhouettes and geometric constraints by drafting formulas that use key body measurements as variables. When applied to apparel computer-aided design (CAD) systems, parametric patterns enable the creation of ready-made patterns by simply inputting size specifications, offering a significant alternative for automating the pattern-drafting process (Liu et al., 2019; Mahnic & Petrak, 2013). In pattern design, the use of three-dimensional (3D) virtual body shapes is crucial to accurately reflecting the anatomical characteristics of the target body. Although the methods may vary, 3D body shape data are suitable for developing patterns that accurately reflect anatomical characteristics (Kim, 2012; Kim et al., 2010; Park et al., 2009).

When unfolding a 3D body shape onto a 2D plane and transforming it into the patterned form of a garment, the use of an unfolded shape as the prototype of the garment is suitable. This is because the unfolded shape closely resembles the garment and can be easily transformed into a customized pattern by applying various allowances to different areas (Kim et al., 2019a, 2019b). To this end, the most commonly used method involves dividing the mesh of the 3D shape by the number of basic lines of the garment pattern and then flattening the meshes of each divided section (Kim et al., 2010; Yoon & Nam, 2016). This method can produce a variety of patterns and variations depending on factors such as the number of divided basic lines and cutting positions, leading to the development of various garment types (Liu et al., 2018; Park et al., 2009). Flattening patterns using mesh techniques presents significant challenges in accurately representing highly curved areas, such as armholes, necklines, and sleeve caps. To overcome this limitation, some studies have proposed modeling these critical curves using quadratic equations (Jin et al., 2023; Lee, 2019). However, the majority of existing research focuses on directly transforming three-dimensional body surface data into two-dimensional pattern designs (Kim et al., 2010; Korosteleva & Lee, 2021). These studies primarily involve converting the 3D body surface into a basic pattern or directly into a pre-designed pattern.

There is a notable gap in research that applies methods for transforming pattern blocks, which incorporate human body measurements, into designed patterns—an approach commonly used in actual garment production. Applying this method to automatic pattern generation could not only facilitate the use of existing pattern blocks, such as slopers, but also offer the advantage of adapting these blocks to a wider variety of designs, building on the foundational pattern.

To automate the pattern-drafting process, parametric patterns that enable numerical transformations should be developed, enabling the unfolding of garments into patterns with various allowances and designs. Additionally, the feasibility of automated pattern drafting implies that production patterns can be created solely by inputting size specifications and body measurements. To this end, production patterns must be represented using drafting methods based on body measurements. Therefore, in this preliminary study, a zero-allowance pattern was developed using the body shape of the central size provided by ready-to-wear companies (Kim et al., 2019a, 2019b). The developed zero-allowance pattern was crafted using body size proportions in the drafting formula, rendering it applicable as a parametric pattern in this study.

To create a production pattern with allowances and additional design elements, they should be added based on their design purpose. Therefore, this study developed a "parametric production pattern" suitable for automated production processes by using the existing zero-allowance pattern from previous studies to create a "basic pattern" that includes basic allowances. Subsequently, material-specific allowances and design elements were added to the basic pattern to develop a "parametric production pattern," suitable for automated production processes. To validate the parametric production pattern, a jacket with various design elements was chosen as the production type, requiring additional processes such as redistributing darts and dividing patterns accordingly. The developed production pattern, incorporating allowances based on body size, was compared and validated in terms of pattern similarity with three types of size patterns developed using conventional grading methods and simulating virtual fittings, considering differences in pattern form, structural dimensions, and virtual fitting results.

Methods

Transformation process of parametric nude patterns into parametric production patterns

In this study, a basic pattern for tops with zero ease using the central size dummy for women in their 20 s was developed and termed the "nude pattern" (Fig. 1). By using the drafting formula of the center-sized nude pattern derived from the preliminary study (Table 1), different sizes were created by substituting one size larger and smaller "bust circumference-height" dimensions (82–150, 88–160) than the central size into the proportion formula of the central size nude pattern.

[See PDF for image]

Fig. 1

Results of creating parametric nude pattern by size using nude pattern ratio equation (Kim et al., 2019a, 2019b)

Table 1. Center-sized nude pattern ratio expression (Kim et al., 2019a, 2019b)

Classification	Nude pattern components	Size [cm]	Ratio expression
Front	Waist Front Length	32.20	0.208 * Stature
	Bust Front Circumference/2	21.75	Bust Circumference /4 + 0.5
	Interscye, Front	15.20	0.694 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)
	Neck Front Breadth	6.20	0.283 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)
	Bust Point-Bust Point /2	7.00	0.319 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)
	Chest Front Circumference /2	21.60	0.986 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)
	Height of Bust line to Waist line	16.60	0.515 * Waist Front Length1)
	Height of Axilla line to Waist line	20.20	0.627 Waist Front Length1)
	Height of Interscye line to Waist line	27.60	0.857 * Waist Front Length1)
	Anterior Neck Height	7.30	1.172 * Neck Front Breadth
Back	Waist Back Length	38.10	0.246 * Stature
	Bust Back Circumference/2	20.75	Bust Circumference /4–0.5
	Interscye, Back	16.80	0.804 * (Bust Back Circumference /2)
	Neck Back Breadth	7.20	0.344 * (Bust Back Circumference /2)
	Chest Back Circumference /2	21.60	1.033 * (Bust Back Circumference /2)
	Height of Bust line to Waist line	16.37	0.43 * Waist Back Length1)
	Height of Axilla line to Waist line	19.34	0.508 * Waist Back Length1)
	Height of Interscye line to Waist line	26.07	0.685 * Waist Back Length1)
	Cervicale Height	4.10	0.569 * Neck Back Breadth
Both	Waist Circumference/4	16.25	0.742 * (Bust Front Circumference/2)

¹⁾ Waist Front Length, ¹⁾ Waist Back Length: These measurements are dimensions calculated based on height rather than actual body measurements

In a previous study (Kim et al., 2019a, 2019b), to develop a nude pattern that reflects the form of a dummy, radial body surface lengths were measured by connecting each clothing drafting pattern point centered on the bust points of the front side and the scapular point of the back side, which are the manipulation reference points on the front and back of the body. These measurements were utilized as fundamental values for pattern drafting (Fig. 2). This outcome indicates that by devising the center-size nude pattern based on radial body length, a proportion formula can be derived, enabling the creation of parametric patterns with body dimensions as variables (Fig. 1). Therefore, in this study, these patterns were considered "parametric nude patterns."

[See PDF for image]

Fig. 2

Principles of the nude pattern drafting method

Additionally, since a previous study (Kim et al., 2019a, 2019b) developed nude pattern formulas for basic bodices, jackets that require patterns for the hip circumference area necessitate a pattern ratio formula that can apply hip circumference and hip length. For the hip circumference, the bust circumference nude pattern ratio formula from the developed basic bodice block was utilized, and the hip length ratio was calculated based on height, similar to the calculation of the waist back length.

The process of transforming the parametric nude patterns designed in this study follows the production process of ready-made companies by incorporating design elements using a basic form known as a "sloper" with ease allowances (Fig. 3). Initially, parametric nude patterns were generated for the central size dummy. Then, by adding allowances for the lengths and heights of each component line and the number of darts required for the final production pattern, excluding specific design elements, patterns with the characteristics of the sloper used by the company were created. While parametric nude patterns are generated using the exact proportions and sizes of the human body, parametric basic patterns incorporate the ease allowances and baseline positions used by companies into the basic pattern design. As a result, the sizes include ease allowances, and the positions of the main circumference elements are altered. These patterns were termed "parametric basic patterns." Finally, by distributing and positioning darts, determining design line locations through dart manipulation, and incorporating other design elements, "parametric production patterns" were developed.

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Fig. 3

Process of parametric nude pattern transformation

Generation of parametric basic patterns

To acquire the necessary allowance for creating parametric basic patterns, we analyzed the differences in component line lengths and heights between the central-sized nude and central-sized production patterns, as shown in Fig. 4. This process was conducted using the YUKA CAD program. YUKA CAD is widely utilized in the fashion and textile industry, particularly for its advanced grading capabilities in mass production settings and its high compatibility with industrial manufacturing systems. Given that this study aims to automate the pattern-making process for ready-made garments, YUKA CAD was selected as it aligns with the research objectives and is commonly employed in industry practice.

[See PDF for image]

Fig. 4

Process of extracting production basic pattern sizes using nude patterns

Initially, both patterns were aligned based on their neck-side points. Subsequently, we marked the horizontal extension lines of the essential component lines from the nude pattern onto the production pattern. Then, we calculated the differences in length and height to determine the allowances. These allowances were incorporated as constant values into the ratio formula of the parametric nude pattern, thereby finalizing the drafting formula. By applying the bust circumference and height dimensions to the central size, as well as sizes one size smaller and one size larger, we generated parametric basic patterns for the three size categories.

Generation of parametric production patterns

Utilizing the nude pattern drafting formulas developed in previous research (Table 1), this study developed a "basic pattern" that includes standard ease allowances (Table 2). Additionally, by incorporating movement ease and design elements based on fabric and design into the basic pattern, a "parametric production pattern" was developed for use in automated production processes (Table 3).

Table 2. Parametric basic pattern proportion formula for jacket

Classification	Item	Proportion formula of Parametric Basic Pattern [cm]
	①	0.208 * Stature + 10.72
	②	(Bust Circumference /4 + 0.5) + 0.13
	③	0.694 * (Bust Front Circumference /2) + 0.79
	④	0.283 * (Bust Front Circumference /2) + 1.64
	⑤	0.319 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)
	⑥	0.986 * (Bust Front Circumference /2) + 0.42
	⑦	0.515 * (0.208 * Stature + 10.72)
	⑧	0.627 * (0.208 * Stature + 10.72)–1.59
	⑨	0.857 * (0.208 * Stature + 10.72)
	⑩	1.172 * Neck Front Breadth + 1.41
	⑪	0.742 * (Bust Front Circumference /2) + 0.44 + 0.45
	⑫	1.027 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)
	⑬	10.72 (Increase in Waist Front Length)–4.95 (Rise in Waist Height)
	⑭	0.116 * Stature
	⑴	0.246 * Stature + 8.52
	⑵	(Bust Circumference/4–0.5) − 0.55
	⑶	0.804 * (Bust Back Circumference /2)
	⑷	0.344 * (Bust Back Circumference /2) + 0.84
	⑸	1.033 * (Bust Back Circumference /2) -0.64
	⑹	0.43 * (0.246 * Stature + 8.52)
	⑺	0.508 * (0.246 * Stature + 8.52)–0.97
	⑻	0.685 * (0.246 * Stature + 8.52)
	⑼	0.569 * Neck Back Breadth–1.62
	⑽	0.742 * (Bust Front Circumference /2)–0.29
	⑾	1.077 * (Bust Back Circumference /2)
	⑿	8.52 (Increase in Waist Back Length)–5.4 (Rise in Waist Height)

Table 3. Analysis results of design elements in parametric production patterns

	Design element		Numerical aspects of design elements [cm]	Reference point of institutional aspects	Methodology of institutional aspects
Front	Dart incision position of Princess line		(Armhole Length1)) 0.34a	Axilla	Position moved along the armhole line by ‘a’ from the reference point
	Dart center position of Princess line		(Waist Front Circumference1) /2) 0.44b	Lateral Waist	Position moved along the horizontal circumference line by ‘b’ from the reference point
	Dart center position of Design dart		(Waist Front Circumference1) /2) 0.59c	Lateral Waist	Position moved along the horizontal circumference line by ‘c’ from the reference point
	Length of Design dart	Dart endpoint position—Above	− 0.98d	Bust Circumference line	Vertical position moved by ‘d’ along the horizontal circumference line from the reference point (Horizontal position: ‘c’)
		Dart endpoint position—Below	− 4.23e	Waist Circumference line	Vertical position moved by ‘e’ along the horizontal circumference line from the reference point (Horizontal position: ‘c’)
	Amount of design dart		0.6f	Center of design dart	Position moved by ‘f/2’ in both directions from the reference point
	Amount of princess line dart		2.01g	Center of Princess line dart	Position moved by ‘f/2’ in both directions from the reference point
			g = (Distance from the center front to the side seam at the waist line)–(Waist circumference / 4)–f
	Front center portion for buttons		1.4h	Front Centerline	Line translated parallel to the left direction of the front center line by ‘h’
	Bottom rise of the side seam		2.08i	Endpoint of the side seam bottom	Position moved ‘i’ units vertically upward from the reference point
Back	Dart incision position of princess line		(Armhole length1)) * 0.49j	Axilla	Position moved along the armhole line by ‘j’ from the reference point
	Dart center position of princess line		(Waist Back Circumference1) /2) * 0.44k	Lateral Waist	Position moved along the horizontal circumference line by ‘k’ from the reference point
	Amount of princess line dart		1.95l	Center of Princess line dart	Position moved by ‘l/2’ in both directions from the reference point
			l = (Distance from the center back to the side seam at the waist line)–(Waist circumference / 4)
Pattern	Position of design elements

¹⁾ Armhole Length, Waist Front Circumference, Waist Back Circumference of “Numerical aspects of design elements” are values derived from the pattern

Analysis of design elements in existing patterns

To determine the necessary design elements for pattern generation, we examined the positions and quantities of the design elements in the production patterns of the different sizes, as shown in Fig. 5. Dart positions were determined by calculating the dart center positions using the waistline ratio. Additionally, we compared the lengths of the darts and positions of dart manipulation in relation to the lengths and heights of relevant pattern components. By analyzing the comparative results, we integrated the ratios of the positions and lengths of each design element into the basic parametric pattern drafting formula. Thus, finalizing the drafting method for the parametric production pattern. Similarly, the parametric production patterns were generated for the three size categories, as shown in Fig. 5.

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Fig. 5

Design elements required for parametric production patterns

Verification of parametric production patterns

This study numerically verifies whether the deviations between patterns generated by the parametric nude-pattern formula for different sizes perform the same function as the deviations applied in conventional grading processes. If garments made using the final patterns generated by the automated drafting process exhibit silhouettes similar to those made using conventionally graded patterns, they can serve as a replacement for the grading patterns.

To this end, we compared the morphological similarities between three existing jacket production patterns of different sizes and the three patterns generated by our parametric production method through overlay analysis. Moreover, we compared the numerical changes in each garment component.

Results

Generation of parametric basic patterns

To formulate a drafting method for the basic parametric pattern, the surplus of the jacket production pattern based on the parametric nude pattern formula was necessary. Thus, the differences between the central-sized production pattern and the nude pattern were applied as surpluses for each item. The surplus for each item was incorporated as a constant value in Table 2. Since the ratio formulas in Table 2 are based on the nude pattern drafting formulas from Table 1 with added ease allowances for the same items, the pattern formulas have been slightly modified. Ultimately, the transformed jacket parametric basic pattern drafted using the formula presented in Table 2 enables the creation of basic patterns for each size using only the “bust circumference-height” measurement. The drafted size-specific jacket parametric basic patterns are shown in Fig. 6.

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Fig. 6

Size Specific Jacket Parametric Basic Pattern Proportion

Generation of parametric production patterns

To develop a drafting method for the parametric production pattern, the design elements of the jacket production pattern were integrated into the drafting method of the basic parametric pattern using formulae. To this end, the size intervals between the central size production pattern of the jacket and the patterns generated through grading were analyzed to determine the rules for applying the design elements. Figure 7 shows the three existing size production patterns.

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Fig. 7

Existing 3 sizes parametric production patterns

The design elements of the three size production patterns for the jacket were as follows:

• ■ On the front: Princess line dart division position, princess line dart center position, design dart center position, total length of design dart, and amount of design dart.

• ■ On the back: Princess line dart division position and princess line dart center position.

Table 3 presents the analysis results of the design element positions and quantities for the three size production patterns.

In this study, the division position of the princess line is determined based on the ratio of the armhole length, and the center positions of the princess line dart and design dart are based on the ratios of waist front circumference/2 and waist back circumference/2, respectively. The total length of the design dart is expressed as the distance from the bottom endpoint of the dart below the waist circumference line to the top endpoint of the dart below the chest circumference line. The amount of the design dart was determined as a fixed value by comparing the three sizes. This fixed value for the design dart amount was uniformly applied using the center size pattern.

The final application ratios of the design elements were determined by applying the average ratio obtained from the analysis of the three sizes. The application method of the design elements was integrated into the appropriate sequence of the basic parametric pattern drafting method to complete the parametric production pattern. When comparing the parametric production pattern drafting method with conventional grading patterns for each size, it was confirmed that they were remarkably similar and difficult to distinguish.

Validation of the parametric production pattern

The developed parametric production pattern was compared with the conventional grading pattern by overlapping them (Fig. 8). The comparison revealed minimal differences in the seam lines and sizes between the two patterns, with a size of 85–155 showing the greatest similarity. For sizes within the range of 82–150, slight variations were observed in the positions of the front darts, waistlines, and armhole shapes, while both size ranges 82–150 and 88–160 exhibited differences in dart positions and shoulder angles on the back panel.

[See PDF for image]

Fig. 8

Comparison of pattern overlay between parametric production pattern and conventional grading pattern

During the transformation process of the parametric basic pattern into a production pattern, the design elements were measured for each pattern size, and the relative error ratio and the required element values for drafting were compared (Table 4). When setting the position of the armhole above the princess line or the center of the dart in the production pattern, the ratio values based on the reference line were utilized as drafting standards. The vertical length of the dart was applied to the drafting formula by moving specific values vertically from the reference line. For the ratio values of the princess line dart and design dart on the front panel, relative errors ranging from 5.08% to 14.71% were observed, indicating their cause of deviations in the positions as illustrated in Fig. 9.

Table 4. Comparison of design element dimensions and relative errors by size in parametric production patterns

	Design element		Numerical aspects of design elements		Parametric production pattern of jacket [cm]
			elements	value	82–150	85–155	88–160
Front	Dart incision position of Princess line (a = Armhole Length*0.34)		Baseline for dart creation	Armhole Length [cm]	20.89	21.23	27.69
			Dart incision position	a[cm]	7.51	7.75	8.11
			Ratio	0.34	0.36	0.37	0.29
			Relative error of Ratio [%]		5.88	8.82	14.71
	Dart center position of Princess line (b = Waist Front Circumference/2 *0.44)		Baseline for dart center point	Waist Front Circumference /2 [cm]	17.97	18.58	19.34
			Dart center position	b[cm]	8.09	8.13	8.18
			Ratio	0.44	0.45	0.44	0.42
			Relative error of Ratio [%]		2.27	0	4.55
	Dart center position of Design dart (c = Waist Front Circumference/2 *0.59)		Baseline for dart center point	Waist Front Circumference /2 [cm]	17.97	18.58	19.34
			Dart center position	c[cm]	11.19	11.87	9.99
			Ratio	0.59	0.62	0.64	0.52
			Relative error of Ratio [%]		5.08	8.47	11.86
	Length of Design dart	Dart endpoint position—Above	d[cm]	− 0.98	− 0.93	− 1.08	− 0.93
			Relative error of d [%]		5.10	10.20	5.10
		Dart endpoint position—Below	e[cm]	− 4.23	− 4.19	− 4.19	− 4.32
			Relative error of e [%]		0.95	0.95	2.13
	Amount of design dart		f[cm]	0.6	0.6	0.6	0.59
	Amount of princess line dart		g[cm]	2.01	2.01	2.01	2.01
	Front center portion for buttons		h[cm]	1.4	1.4	1.4	1.4
	Bottom rise of the side seam		i[cm]	2.08	2.08	2.08	2.08
Back	Dart incision position of princess line (j = Armhole length * 0.49)		Baseline for dart creation	Armhole length [cm]	22.18	22.52	23
			Dart incision position	j[cm]	10.74	10.98	11.26
			Ratio	0.49	0.48	0.49	0.49
			Relative error of Ratio [%]		2.04	0.00	0.00
	Dart center position of princess line (k = Waist Back Circumference /2 * 0.44		Baseline for dart center point	Waist Back Circumference /2 [cm]	16.8	17.43	18.18
			Dart center position	k[cm]	7.40	7.73	8.08
			Ratio	0.44	0.44	0.44	0.44
			Relative error of Ratio [%]		0.00	0.00	0.00
	Amount of princess line dart		l[cm]	1.95	1.95	1.95	1.95

*$\text{Relative Error}\left(\text{\%}\right)=\left|\frac{Experimentalvalue-Theoreticalvalue}{Theoreticalvalue}\right|\times 100$

^*The measurement methods for a ~ l can be verified in Table 3

[See PDF for image]

Fig. 9

Parametric production patterns and grading patterns by the conventional method of each size

Except for a maximum relative error of 2.04% in the back dart, no errors were observed, confirming that this production pattern drafting method could be applied accurately to back-panel drafting. The difference in dart drafting between the front and back panels suggests that large errors occur when applying this method to the front panel, which has a greater body curvature. This indicates the need for further verification by applying this drafting method to a wider range of designs.

Discussion

The proposition and validation of a parametric production pattern generation system for automating pattern-making processes in the ready-made clothing industry are necessary. This validation involved a complex process of reverse engineering the allowances and design elements of existing production patterns. However, when applied to the industry, the proposed process can be implemented, as shown in Fig. 10. Initially, by adding the desired allowances and design elements to the ratio formulas of nude patterns specific to each company, a drafting method for ready-made clothing can be designed. Ultimately, this drafting method is critical in the input of algorithms into the garment computer-aided design system.

[See PDF for image]

Fig. 10

Application of automated process for creating proposed ready-made garment patterns

The nude pattern developed in this study enables direct application without altering the algorithm when developing patterns for tight-fitting wearables. Moreover, it is expected to provide the best fitting production patterns for women's apparel using the S, M, and L size systems with the “bust circumference-height” ratio formula applied. If the necessary programs to automate each step of the proposed parametric production pattern generation system are developed, it could significantly contribute to the automation of clothing production processes.

However, although the parametric production pattern developed in this study was validated for usability by applying it to the body panel of a jacket, it undergoes frequent changes in its structure and design. The differences were observed compared with conventional patterns, particularly in specific details such as shoulder angles, waistlines, and dart positions. Further validation of the developed algorithm across various garment types is necessary to determine whether such differences contribute to improving fit, as observed in virtual fitting results. Additionally, as the algorithm was not validated for a broader range of system sizes, further validation with an extensive range of sizes is required. Because the developed central size pattern uses standard female dummies employed by companies, further research is required to ascertain whether the dummy represents the average female size. Consequently, future studies should be conducted to comprehensively address these limitations.

Conclusions

This study developed an initial step toward creating a drafting method for final production patterns using parametric nude patterns from previous research and transforming them into producible jacket patterns via an automated drafting approach. In particular, the significance of this study lies in the generation of patterns through a formula that predicts the sizes of various elements using exclusively the two primary measurement variables of "Height" and "Bust circumference. These findings show that the proposed automated pattern drafting method, which enables automatic drafting with only size specifications and body dimension inputs, is a viable replacement for conventional drafting methods.

Through this study, we sought to determine whether it is possible to generate a basic jacket pattern similar to a commercial pattern by inputting sizes, and whether the resulting pattern is feasible for industry use. The complex pattern generation process demonstrated here includes formula calculations, which corresponds to the stage of developing foundational algorithms for producing various designs in the future. Currently, this process is more complex and time-consuming compared to manual processes. However, we anticipate that the designs produced can lead to the development of patterns that can be manufactured solely based on Bust Circumference sizes.

In this study, we attempted to create a parametric pattern by incorporating only the most basic elements of a jacket design, such as darts and seam lines. However, actual jackets have more complex structures and designs. Therefore, we plan to conduct follow-up research by adding various design elements to the basic jacket developed in this study. Elements such as collars and pockets can be incorporated into the parametric pattern, as suggested in Table 3, by defining the positions where each element is inserted as specific points within the current parametric pattern and developing formulas for their positions and shapes.

While this study primarily focuses on jacket pattern development, future research will extend the application of the proposed automated pattern drafting method to a broader range of garments, including bottoms. By doing so, we seek to further validate the methodology developed for automated jacket pattern drafting and establish a solid foundation for advancing it into a more versatile and widely applicable automated pattern-making system.

Acknowledgements

Not applicable.

Author contributions

NK conceived the ideas, experimental design, performed the experiments, collected the data. JP supervised on the interpretation of the results, and manuscript preparation. All authors read and approved the final manuscript.

Funding

This work was supported by Incheon National University (International Cooperative) Research Grant in 2020.

Data availability

Not applicable.

Declarations

Ethics approval and consent to participate

Not applicable.

Competing interests

The authors declare that they have no competing interests.

Publisher's Note

Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.

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