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Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 2009

Abstract

It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the wave field is long crested, narrow banded and sufficiently steep. A reduction of third-order effects is however expected when the wave energy is distributed on a wide range of directions. In water of arbitrary depth, on the other hand, third-order effects tend to be suppressed by finite depth effects if waves are long crested. Numerical simulations of the truncated potential Euler equations are here used to address the combined effect of directionality and finite depth on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves; only relative water depth kh greater than 0.8 are here considered. Results show that random directional wave fields in intermediate water depths, kh = O(1), weakly deviate from Gaussian statistics independently of the degree of directional spreading of the wave energy. [PUBLICATION ABSTRACT]

Details

Title
The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth
Author
Toffoli, A.; Benoit, M.; Onorato, M.; Bitner-Gregersen, E. M.
Pages
131
Publication year
2009
Publication date
2009
Publisher
Copernicus GmbH
ISSN
1023-5809
e-ISSN
1607-7946
Source type
Scholarly Journal
Language of publication
English
ProQuest document ID
519659771
Copyright
Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 2009