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Historical reviews suggest that tanning first became fashionable in the 1920s or 1930s. To quantitatively and qualitatively examine changes in tanning attitudes portrayed in the popular women's press during the early 20th century, we reviewed summer issues of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar for the years 1920, 1927, 1928, and 1929. We examined these issues for articles and advertisements promoting skin tanning or skin bleaching and protection. We found that articles and advertisements promoting the fashionable aspects of tanned skin were more numerous in 1928 and 1929 than in 1927 and 1920, whereas those promoting pale skin (by bleaching or protection) were less numerous. These findings demonstrate a clear shift in attitudes toward tanned skin during this period. (Am J Public Health. 2009;99:2140-2146. doi:10.2105/AJPH.2008.144352)
NUMEROUS STUDIES HAVE linked exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light to both melanoma1-4 and nonmelanoma skin cancers. 2-4 The incidence of skin cancers has risen dramatically over the past century,5-7 and this is largely attributed to increased exposure to UV light from the sun. Despite public education initiatives aimed at preventing skin cancer,8 many individuals continue to tan, citing such reasons as the relationship between tanning and physical and emotional health, an active lifestyle, and physical beauty.9
From a historical perspective, tanning as a fashion trend is a relatively new phenomenon, first noted in the 20th century. Earlier, pale skin was often perceived as a mark of beauty, wealth, and refinement, whereas tanned skin was considered to be typical of manual laborers.10 In the early 20th century, European and American women took precautions to maintain a light skin tone. Parasols and large hats were considered essential summer accessories.11 Magazines in the early 20th century advertised powders that would conceal a tan as well as numerous bleach treatments, such as Bleachine Cream, which was featured in an advertisement by Elizabeth Arden in the July 1, 1920, issue of Vogue as "A mild but effective preparation for removing tan. Nourishing as well as whitening. Excellent for the hands."12 Toxic lead-based cosmetics, which date back to ancient Roman society, and other types of body powders were commonly used to lighten and augment fair skin during this era.9,13
Although it is well-known that social attitudes changed from sun protection to sun seeking during the first half...