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In the '60s, the look was super-skinny; this evolved into the taut body of the '70s; then the '80s were all about glamour. These days, there seems to be a groundswell of support for a shift to more personal definitions of beauty. And one of the prime movers is Charlotte Empey, publisher, Modern Woman. We recognize the fact that the Canadian woman has many faces -- women of colour, all sizes, all ages, women who wear glasses, and those that are physically-challenged," she says. "We don't want to promote a stereotypical image of beauty because what that says to our readers is: 'If I'm not like that, it means I'm not beautiful.'" Real people In a significant departure from what other magazines do, Modern Woman uses its readers as models for its fashion and beauty articles. "We found that non-professionals aren't really comfortable modelling swimwear, so we do use professionals for that, but we always make sure to showcase different body types," Empey says. The magazine's makeover features are highly popular, but Empey stresses that the idea is not to make the subject look like someone else. "We show her how to bring out her own particular good looks by offering tips on makeup and hair techniques, and suggesting new cosmetic, skin and hair care products," she says. Empey explains that Modern Woman is geared to women who are quite clear about what they want. "They told us: 'I want something that reflects my life; I want to see myself; I want to see clothes that I will wear and can buy where I normally shop; I want to know what other women are doing and how they're coping.' So that's what we're addressing." She concedes that her magazine may not be right for every reader. "But we are on the leading edge of dynamic social change; the idea that there is no one standard of beauty is evolving," she comments. We're encouraging women to finally say: 'I want be who I am, and live by my own set of rules.'" Achieving a balance In various ways, other magazines are responding to this trend. Kate Macdonald, editor, Images, says that encouraging a more realistic standard of beauty has been one of her magazine's mandates all along. We have done stories in the past where we used real women to show fashion trends; we try to do a profile on a woman in every issue. In our Spring issue, we did a symposium called 'A Thin Line'. We brought together industry professionals to talk about distorted body images. We're very cognizant of that. But, we have to achieve a balance; it's a very fine line because part of the appeal of fashion and beauty is the fantasy element, a heightened reality. We have to convey that somehow." Reality check Perhaps the most significant sign that traditional attitudes towards beauty are changing, is the success of Plus Figure Models. Founded 11 years ago by former model Jackqueline Hope, this modelling agency has several rosters. Elite features women size 12 to 24; Huge Handsome Hunks showcases larger, taller men; and Little Women has average size models who are under 5'7". The models range in age from 15 to 65. Hope is also the author of Big, Bold and Beautiful: Living Large on a Small Planet, which details her pursuit of a perfect body and her battle for self-acceptance at sizes 12 through 28. She agrees that things are changing, but says there's still a long way to go. Pick up any magazine that has recently done a story on plus sizes, and check out the readers' comments there's always positive feedback," she says. "I honestly believe that if the focus was on people of average weight there would be a lot of appreciation. I'm talking about a healthy body, whether it's size 8 or 14." Hope wonders why magazines feature so few women with fuller faces. "There are so many women who are a size 12 or more -- they buy cosmetics just like everyone else. But we're still being fed this 'thin is beautiful' line." Elmer Olsen, executive vice president, Elite Model Management, has seen some change. "Models don't have to have perfect cookie cutter noses and wide set eyes any more," he says, "but a slim, fit look is still pretty much essential. There is more demand for ethnic types, however, and many models' careers are lasting longer as they move into a lifestyle category in their 30s. Our oldest model is 55, with beautiful salt and pepper hair, and she's very busy." Accessible look It is true that there is an element of fantasy involved in marketing cosmetics products. However, it is likely safe to say that many women would appreciate seeing a look that is more realistic, and hence more accessible. There seems to be little doubt that women in their 30s, 40s and up are becoming increasingly frustrated with fashion and beauty articles and ads featuring models in their teens and early 20s. Similarly, women who are not a perfect size 5 or 7 find it hard to relate to models who are. Cosmetics marketers who cling to the traditional ideas of what constitutes beauty may be missing out on a large, lucrative market by not reaching out to the significant percentage of the population that is not tiny, twiggy and twentysomething.